Bahia Santa Maria

The gorgeous and unpopulated beach at Bahia Santa Maria:

An old fishing camp, currently deserted.

There’s no village here in Bahia Santa Maria. Some fishing camps are established along the beaches, but they are only occupied some parts of the year. We stayed here two days and on the second day “Mag Bay Outfitters,” from nearby Bahia de Magdelena, trucked supplies over and put on a catered lunch for us. They erected shade awnings, utilized a few small buildings built for just this type of event, put up some tables and chairs, and even brought in a local band. It was all very nicely done. Lunch was a foil-wrapped & steamed combination of fish, lobster, and shrimp served with rice. Everyone agreed it was delicious and it was, especially so, to Mike and I since it was our first hot meal in several days. Mike and I spent most of the day walking the beaches & shallow pools, exploring the deserted fishing camps, and taking photos. We came across lots of blue crabs and boy, were they ready to put up a fight when threatened! Here’s a photo of Mike offering one a beer – he didn’t want it!

We also found a whole herd of fiddler crabs. These guys are only about a couple inches across and have only one claw – hence their name. I enjoyed watching them scuttle in and out of their tiny holes, and engage in battles with each other; seems they are very territorial.

The tricky part of Santa Maria was the variable (and often treacherous) surf, and a sand-bar a little ways out from shore, that made it often very exciting (or terrifying) to go to shore. We were advised not to try it in a non-planing dinghy (that is, a dinghy without a motor strong enough to get the dinghy’s bow up and over a breaking wave); in fact, we were told it was best to use the pangas. Well, we don’t have a motor at all on our dinghy, so we hopped into the first panga that came by and had no trouble getting to shore for the lunch. The surf wasn’t too bad early in the day and everyone got to shore just fine; only one or two dinghy’s tipped over and the worse that happened was people got a bit wet.

Later in the day, though, when it was time to go back to our boats, surf conditions had changed. The pangas were taking as many people at a time back to their boats in order to have everyone shuttled back by dark. One couple attempted the return in their dinghy; it flipped in the surf, they’d forgotten to attach their kill-switch, so they were swimming while their dinghy circled around and around like a crazed demon. Other people went out to help them get back to shore and retrieve the dinghy. Meanwhile it was getting darker and darker and the line for the pangas was still long.

Mike and I were lucky. We got in the last panga that made it out. After ours, the panga drivers said it was just too dangerous to continue taking people to their boats. The chances were too high that a panga would flip and people would be swimming in the dark. The result was that around 72 of our people were stranded on the beach overnight! One person had a portable VHF radio so our fleet-leader, Richard, was able to do a roll-call to determine who was left on the beach, who had made it back to their boats, and to make sure no one had gone missing. The stranded people ended up spending a rather uncomfortable night on the floors of the few buildings without much in the way of blankets or pillows. But it would be a story to tell!

Before we knew it our stay in Bahia Santa Maria was over and we were preparing to head out again. We’d made our decision – we were going to turn back and head north, toward home. During the first two legs of the Baja Ha-Ha race, San Diego to Bahia Tortugas, and then Bahia Tortugas to Bahia Santa Maria, we were on the race’s schedule, and had blown by a dozen small bays that we’d like to have explored if we hadn’t been in such a southward rush. We wished for more control over where we went, when, and how long we stayed. So instead of continuing further south, around Cabo (where the race would end), and into the Sea of Cortez (which would leave us with a pretty tight schedule for the return trip) we decided to turn back north and stop at some of those little harbors while making a much more leisurely trip home.

Enjoying the sun, waves, and a book....my kind of sailing!

Bahia de Tortugas

Are we ever glad to be here in Bahia de Tortugas (or Turtle Bay, to us gringos). We left San Diego at 11 a.m. on Monday, October 29th and today is Thursday, November 1st. It was a fantastic sight – nearly 180 boats setting off at once from San Diego Harbor. We were accompanied by a Navy aircraft carrier, and a Navy plane whose pilot radioed to us, “Have fun and good luck!” We have been three days and three nights at sea, under sail constantly in fair to high winds and with large rolling swells hitting us almost directly on our stern, and having had to keep watch continuously. Not a lot of quality sleep! Plus, with the rocking and rolling of the boat I didn’t dare get out my laptop and do any writing. So this will be fairly short today. Rumor has it that there is an internet café in Turtle Bay Village, a little town of 1,000 people, so we’re hopeful that I will be able to post today. We have not been to shore yet and are anxious to do so and feel solid ground under our feet!

won’t say too much about the last few days except that it seemed endless! The nights were very dark, the darkest I’ve ever seen, especially Tuesday night when the moon didn’t rise until about 2 a.m. and the seas were like black ink. The stars seemed faint and unusually high above and gave no light. Gave me the heebee-jeebies when I had to be on deck alone! I was always sad when the sun went down, knowing the long night was ahead, and then jubilant when it rose again the next morning, especially when the view was this spectacular (see photo above).


Mike did trail a fishing line behind us much of the time and actually had a few catches. Two Bonito, both of which he deemed too small and released, and a very strange sea creature that didn’t look like it would be good eating at all! We threw that one back, too.

Gotta at least mention the great party we had in San Diego before the race started – a huge barbecue and Halloween costume party. Food and drinks galore, and lots of people dressed up. My favorite costume was a bearded guy wearing a blue bikini. Sonny and Cher were there, too, as well as Jack Skellington (who my male orange tabby is named after), the entire Flintstone gang, Woody, Buzz Lightyear, Little Bo Peep, and the Green Army Man from “Toy Story” and, of course, LOTS of pirates, including Jack Sparrow.

We’ve got Enrique coming out in his panga to top off our gas tank then we’ll catch the water-taxi to shore and see what there is to see. We’ve been told there are a couple of restaurants, a hotel, some little shops, and lots of friendly children. There is supposed to be some great hiking along the shore and in cliffs so we’ll get in some exercise, too. Tomorrow there is a big beach party for all the Ha-Ha’er’s, plus the locals will join us, including the children, so it should be really fun. I’ll be sure to take lots of photos to share with you next chance I get.

Take care everyone and we’ll continue to stay in touch as we are able. Be sure to keep an eye on my other blog www.blogwebajeb.blogspot.com for info on my latest digital scrapbook layouts!

Our love to our families and friends!!!

Ventura to San Diego

While we were at dockside in Ventura Isles Harbor our older son, Rodrigo, and his fiancée, Dianna, drove from nearby Camarillo to have dinner with us. We ate at the highly recommended Brophey Brothers in the Ventura Marina Village and it was all-around excellent; food, service, and atmosphere. Afterwards, the “kids” kindly drove us to a nearby Von’s so that we could buy a little fresh produce, bread, and a few other odds and ends.

It was sure good to see family! I'd love to have also seen my mom and dad, who live in Simi Valley, but my dad had recent surgery and I didn't want them to make the trip out. My mom has a hard enough time getting my dad to take it easy and allow his body to recuperate gradually without me tempting him to get out in the car for an evening! Hang in there, Dad, we'll see you soon! Love you both!!!

The next morning, Wednesday, October 24, we left Ventura headed for Santa Catalina Island. It was another day and night at sea, and yet another leg of our trip when the wind was practically non-existent. We hadn’t realized we’d be motoring most of the way to Mexico! During the night the wind came up nicely and we got a few hours of actual sailing in but then it died again so we were back to the “iron jib.” For me, it’s easier to be motoring when I have a night watch; I’m not the sailor Mike is, although I am learning, and I don’t have the confidence yet to be under sail when I’m on deck alone in the middle of the night. Perhaps by the time we are heading home it will be a different story; we can hope!

We approached Catalina from the northwest, as the sun was rising and casting a red glow on the sky and water, entering Catalina Island Harbor which is on the west side of the island, or its “back side” if you are looking at the island from the southern California mainland. This calm and sheltered harbor with few boats was the quietest and most peaceful anchorage we’ve had so far. Apparently the fishing there is excellent, too, because we were treated to scores of pelicans flying low over the water and diving after fish. At dusk the activity was at its peak with a pelican crashing into the water every couple of minutes. Seagulls chased and harassed the pelicans, trying to steal their catch, and creating a cacophony of screeches and shrieks. Quite entertaining!

Once we had anchored and made good with the harbor patrol Mike inflated our dinghy and we set off for shore. There was a tiny little town there called “Two Harbors,” so named for the two harbors, one of either side of it, that it serves. As the harbor patrol guy told us, there was “one of everything,” meaning one restaurant, one building for showers and rest rooms, one little grocery store, etc.

We found the Visitor’s Center and went in to see what information we could get. Not much, as it turned out. In fact, Mike and I were surprised at the cool reception we got when we went in. I asked if there was a bus to Avalon (about a 2.5 hour ride) and the woman said “yes, it leaves at noon.” I told Mike that sounded good, and then asked the woman what time it returned. “It doesn’t,” she said, “not until tomorrow.” I don’t know why that information wasn’t offered up front. What if we had taken that bus to Avalon, expecting to return the same day? Seems the bus only makes same-day round-trips during the summer peak season. In fact, we got a cool reception every place we went to the point that we wondered if the “locals” didn’t like tourists which would be strange since how else would their little island town survive? Get a clue you people in Two Harbors!

We took a long hike along the east side of the island, perhaps three or four miles in all, and the exercise felt great after so many sedentary days on the boat. Down in the water we could see several scuba diving and snorkeling classes going on and two groups of colorful kayaks. From our position up on the cliff we could see straight through the clear water to the coral and plants on the bottom.

On our way back to the boat we stopped for lunch at the only restaurant in town, where we met the ONLY nice person of the day, the young lady who took our order and waited on us, she was GREAT, and where we also enjoyed the company of two cats (one orange and white, the other grey and white) that came by begging for food. They got most of my chicken enchiladas! Later we saw a solid black cat who wasn’t at all interested in making our acquaintance but coolly allowed me to snap a quick photo. I do seem to find cats to make friends with just about everywhere I go; I really don't know why!

We also found a rope swing, which we had a wonderful time swinging on, and passed by the one-room schoolhouse where the kids and their teacher were enjoying their lunch outside. Ahhhh, a simpler life, eh?

Now, after another day and night at sea, we have finally arrived in San Diego. We’re now surrounded by boats that are flying the purple “Baja Ha-Ha” flag. There are nearly 180 in all, docked or anchored in several marinas. Tomorrow the rally activities begin with a skipper’s meeting then a barbecue and Halloween party. It’s overcast and rainy today but the paper says sunny tomorrow so I hope the forecast is correct. I’m exhausted today so we will go to bed early and try to catch up on sleep. But first, a walk into town to find internet access so I can post this update.

I'm not sure how soon I will be able to post again. We are due to enter Mexico on Monday, at which time all bets are off as far as where to get on-line. I hear that there are Starbucks there, though, so if I can find one of those I'm sure I'll be able to send off emails and or update my blog. So stay tuned, as always!